
UW Details
At Universal Works, we are big on the small details. The angled buttonhole on the Bakers Jacket, always stitched in contrast thread. The Ghost Patch on the back of every piece. These quiet design choices make our garments instantly recognisable—even without a logo. UW Details is about celebrating these unique, unexpected touches that give the game away and make a piece unmistakably ours.
The Ghost Patch.
Inspired by an old 1950s sweatshirt owned by Co-Founder David Keyte, where the care label had worn away and left a stitch line, our Ghost Patch is a detail on almost every one of our garments—look closely for its ghostly appearance. We love how it is reminiscent of ‘ghost signs’, old hand-painted advertising signs on the side of buildings, preserved but faded over time.
Contrast Button Thread.
You might have heard us say before,‘stuff worth wearing, is worth repairing’. Which is something we have been shouting about since our very first collection. We believe if you like it, you should repair it, and wear those repairs like badges of honour. Adding a contrast stitched button to the left cuff on our shirts acknowledges the beauty in imperfections, as when you (eventually) come to need a shirt repair, there is already something there that is 'imperfect’.
Contrast Angled Buttonhole.
Traditional workwear jackets had pockets for pocket watches, which would have a t-bar chain for a buttonhole, to keep the watch secure. We take inspiration from this on our pieces by including an angled buttonhole—as David Keyte says, “this used to be for pocket watches, now it’s for headphones”, although those of us with Bluetooth or over-the-head styles might just have to appreciate the visual element instead.
The Label.
We love the simplicity and slightly utilitarian feel that using cotton gives our labels, marking each piece proudly with our name. A nod to an understated aesthetic, our labels are the perfect example of our want to never over-design, with the quiet confidence that comes from making real, honest clothing.
Brown Button.
While we occasionally switch things up—a black button here and there, small white buttons for shirts—we tend to come back to our trusty brown button. We originally chose this for aesthetic reasons (it works with pretty much everything), but also to keep costs down and to keep things simple for the people who make our clothes. Those we use are made from recycled polyester, with an effect that mimics natural horn. We love buttons for their practicality too; they are easily replaced, meaning you get more life out of your piece (if you lose one, just drop us a line and we will drop one in the post).
Herringbone Tape Cuff Openings.
Originally just a style feature on all our shirts, each piece had Herringbone Tape on the cuff—something a little different to what you might find on a regular shirt. In the beginning, we approached things frugally, and still do, with our choice of taping bridging the gap between cost-saving and design choices. When we use it in our collections now, we just prefer the way it looks.
Shirt Hem Insert.
A traditional shirting feature that our Co-Founder and Designer David Keyte has always loved, our contrast chain stitched hem vents add a subtle contrast and a bit of playfulness to some of our smarter shirts.
Angled Shovel Pocket.
An intentionally asymmetrical pocket, added to emphasise the interest and human-ness that should go into making and wearing clothes. Inspired by a vintage tie that had distorted in shape over time, we liked the idea of the irregular shapes that come from loving a piece for a long time. We added this to our first ever collection, and we nod to it in some of our continuous styles, like the Lazy Day Shirt and Daybrook Shirt.